I came of with this title for a reason: there are infinite smells throughout the city. No matter where we travel, there is always some bizarre stench closeby. The best examples of this can be found in the local markets. Susan and I went recently went to a local neighborhood marker, where vendors sell anything (and I literally mean anything). Cambodians don't let anything go to waste, so virtually every part of the animal is consumed. Market vendors sell live and dried out fish from the Mekong, frogs, tarantulas, intenstines, smelly fruits, spices, etc etc etc. I, for whatever reason, can't seem to get away from a lingering fishy smell. The other day, I accidently put fish juice on my rice when I though it was vinegar...I almost threw up on the spot. One of the funniest things I have seen has been the infamous chicken moto, where a chicken vendor transports hundreds of dead and alive chicken on his tiny moto (pics to come later).
Over the past three days, I have been taken daily Khmer lessons. I am actually picking up the language rather quickly. I know basic greetings, how to count to about 90,000, family members, foods, and general questions. Cambodians are very grateful when they see you trying to communicate in their native tongue. At the same time, they enjoy practicing their English with foreigners.
Susan has been great in arranging meetings with executive directors of various NGOs in town. The non-government agencies are instrumental in providing appropriate relief to strenghen healthcare and the economy of Cambodia. Yesterday, we met with the executive director of KHANA (Khmer HIV/AIDS NGO Alliance), and organization intended to provide support to everyone in Cambodia suffering from HIV/AIDS and to promote safe practices. They are doing a fantastic job, because nearly 95% of all infected persons (in the ENTIRE country) either receive ARVs (anti-retroviral drugs) or are in ART (anti-retroviral therapy). The biggest problem here is not providing the support, but encouraging people to practice safe behaviors. People here are educated on HIV/AIDS, but are still reluctant to wear condoms or practice appropriate safe behaviors.
We also visited the director of The Transcultural Psychosocial Organization, an organization aimed to help improve mental health issues of Cambodia. The Khmer Rouge has left lasting psychosical issues among most people here, so it is important to recognize underlying factors and help improve. The head doctor of the program believes that people suffer from Basabat, or a defeated mentality. This is a bit different from PTSD, so different measures need to be taken in helping people. Other NGOs include Resource Revenue Transparency and Tinytoons. RRT is intended to make all oil/mining revenues and budgeting transparent so the money accumulated does not go to waste. It is better to invest this money long term as it will help the economy in the long run. Tinytunes is an organization taking streets kids from the streets and putting them in a safer, more fun environment. Here, kids can learn to breakdance, play sports, work with a dj turntable, and take English classes. This is a very unique organization that has received a great deal of grant money over the past 4 years.
Yesterday, Susan and I visited the Russian market, where you can essentially buy anything. I bought a knock off North Face Backpack, one of those heavy duty ones, for only $12 (they retail for about $80). You can get bootleg DVDs for $2 (including recent films such as The Hangover), bootleg POLOs from $6 (and they look legit), moto parts, crafts, food, etc.
Ill try to post some pics either tonight or tomorrow. I have been really busy so I havent had time to do so.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
The City of Smells
Yeserday, Susan and I got the unique oppurtunity to observe members of the Khmer Rouge on trial at the Phnom Penh courthouse an hour outside of town. (I wan't to apologize in advance if my grammar is poor, my keyboard is especially shitty...very frustrating). When I realized that long pants were required for entry (I was clearly wearing shorts), the secuirty guard denied me access. As I was walking away, another judicial security officer officed to rent me a pair of jeans for $2. This was cleary a scam. It is ironic to think that such things happen at the natioal judicial headquarters....hah. Anyway, the man being tried is named Duch, the former head of Tuol Sleng Prison. It is fascinating to see history in the making before my very eyes. While the trial, headed by the UN, has already lasted for months, there is no end in immediate sight. Duch is the first of four Khmer Rouge members being tried.
The drive back to town allowed me to see a slew of brothels along the edge of the road. Disguised as "massage parlors," you can get special treatment for 5000 riel, or a hefty $1.25. Recent statistics indicate that about 1/3 of active prostitutes have HIV/AIDs...a staggering number. I know where to not find a girlfriend. Most of the girls are young teenagers which is particularly disturbing.
After a quck bite to eat at a Western style sandwhich shop (I was so hungry I ordered 2 meals), Susan and I visited the nearest prison in the outer province bordering Phnom Penh. In visiting with members of an NGO promoting human rights, we gave food and toiletries to the female inmates. The prison conditions are horrfic (straight out of locked up abroad). It is very sad because four of the women are taking care of young children during their sentences, one of which has a second on the way. Living quarters for all prisoners are miserable, especially for men. 48 men reside in cells that are intended to sleep 12 people. The food they eat is minimal and infested with flies, bathrooms are both scarce and unsanitary, and cells are scorching hot. Watching Locked Up Abroad has taught be never to smuggle drugs from a foreign country...these guys looked rough.
I wanted to write a bit more, but this keyboard is killing me. Ill get back to everyone tomorrow.
chum reep leer,
Matt
The drive back to town allowed me to see a slew of brothels along the edge of the road. Disguised as "massage parlors," you can get special treatment for 5000 riel, or a hefty $1.25. Recent statistics indicate that about 1/3 of active prostitutes have HIV/AIDs...a staggering number. I know where to not find a girlfriend. Most of the girls are young teenagers which is particularly disturbing.
After a quck bite to eat at a Western style sandwhich shop (I was so hungry I ordered 2 meals), Susan and I visited the nearest prison in the outer province bordering Phnom Penh. In visiting with members of an NGO promoting human rights, we gave food and toiletries to the female inmates. The prison conditions are horrfic (straight out of locked up abroad). It is very sad because four of the women are taking care of young children during their sentences, one of which has a second on the way. Living quarters for all prisoners are miserable, especially for men. 48 men reside in cells that are intended to sleep 12 people. The food they eat is minimal and infested with flies, bathrooms are both scarce and unsanitary, and cells are scorching hot. Watching Locked Up Abroad has taught be never to smuggle drugs from a foreign country...these guys looked rough.
I wanted to write a bit more, but this keyboard is killing me. Ill get back to everyone tomorrow.
chum reep leer,
Matt
Monday, July 27, 2009
A Somber Day
For those of you who don't know, a horrific genocide took place here from 1975-1979. The Khmer Rouge, a revoltionary extremist regime under Pol Pot, took power and began killing all oppressors. In the 4 year span, nearly 1/3 of Camdodia (roughly 1.7 million people) was killed off. Early Sunday morning, Susan and I visited the Tuol Sleng geocide mesuem located at the former prison camp. In 1975, The Khmer Rouge took over a local high school and turned it into a prison. In the camp, men, women, and children were shackled, lased, electricuted, then shipped away to killing fields (that is of course if they had already survived). It is pretty outrageous to think that this type of genocide took place only 30 years ago. Everybody that we talk to seems to be affected by this time period as all families were torn apart. In the exhibit, there are still blood stains on the floors and torture tools are on display. After a quick bite to eat, Susan and I took a tuk tuk to the nearby kiling fields. Only a few kilometers away, prisoners were taken to the fields blindfolded and told that they were to be "re-educated." However, thousands and thousands of innocent Cambodians were killed and thrown into mass graves. Today, the fields serve as a memorial, whith thousands of skulls and bones on display. There are still bones bits and clothing shards along the walking path of the fields....very very sad. To make matters worse, small children continued to approach us begging for money. While it may seem tempting to support these kids, the money that they raise goes straight to a controlling boss (much like Slumdog Millionaire). It is better to give these kids food or water.
After resting at the pool for a bit, a former student of Susan's and a new friend of mine, Cchivleng, called me and invited me to go dancing. While clubbing at 5:30 pm seemed a bit strange, I decided to go anyway for the experience. When she and I pulled up to the location, I saw thousands of people dancing along the periphery of the futball stadium....by dancing, I mean doing aerobics. Thoughts of mandatory Zumba and step aerobic classes at Emory continued to race through my mind. Regardless, I decided to take part anyway. The first parts of the dance were easy, but after a while I was falling far behind. 3 little girls tried to teach me, but I was useless. It is funny, because at one point they played Lou Bega's "Mambo Number 5," but the dancing did not follow the instructions of the lyrics. I was probably the only person in the stadium to notice this.
After dinner with Cchevling at a traditional Cambodian restaraunt (I had pad thai and fried ice cream), I decided it was time to call home. I was able to make a 20 minute phone call to the states for only $1.00. Internet access is only 50 cents/ hour. Other prices are very very inexpensive...cigarette cartons for a quarter (Fouty wuold be in trouble), motorcycles for $400 dollars, nice tvs for $60, etc. etc.
Thats all for today, but I am still a bit behind with entries. Ill try to post some pics at some point.
After resting at the pool for a bit, a former student of Susan's and a new friend of mine, Cchivleng, called me and invited me to go dancing. While clubbing at 5:30 pm seemed a bit strange, I decided to go anyway for the experience. When she and I pulled up to the location, I saw thousands of people dancing along the periphery of the futball stadium....by dancing, I mean doing aerobics. Thoughts of mandatory Zumba and step aerobic classes at Emory continued to race through my mind. Regardless, I decided to take part anyway. The first parts of the dance were easy, but after a while I was falling far behind. 3 little girls tried to teach me, but I was useless. It is funny, because at one point they played Lou Bega's "Mambo Number 5," but the dancing did not follow the instructions of the lyrics. I was probably the only person in the stadium to notice this.
After dinner with Cchevling at a traditional Cambodian restaraunt (I had pad thai and fried ice cream), I decided it was time to call home. I was able to make a 20 minute phone call to the states for only $1.00. Internet access is only 50 cents/ hour. Other prices are very very inexpensive...cigarette cartons for a quarter (Fouty wuold be in trouble), motorcycles for $400 dollars, nice tvs for $60, etc. etc.
Thats all for today, but I am still a bit behind with entries. Ill try to post some pics at some point.
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Day 1 in Phnom Penh (7/25/09)
I have so much to write about from my first day here to bare with me.
I was planing to meet Susan for breakfast at 9:00 am to go over the basics of the program. Not able to sleep (I must have Shane syndrome), I woke up at 6:30 in time to watch the beginning of the Yankees game on ESPN (thank god I got my baseball fix). I met Susan at a neighboring outdoor pool area/restaurant for a quick bite to eat. This place looks like it is straight out of Malibu, CA. There are lavish pools with trendy sunbathing beds along the edges...pretty crazy. I had a small salad to eat, then we decided to walk around town for a bit. It is so incredibly hot here. While temperatures range in the mid to upper 80s, the sun just beats on you. I was sweating within seconds of walking outside. Walking around town I noticed 2 things very quickly: The people here are extremely friendly, and everything here is incredibly cheap. Everyone wants to stop and share a few words with you, greeting you in traditional Cambodian fashion (hands palm to palm at your chin and a slight bow). The people here look like a mix between Mexicans and Indians. It is very easy to differentiate between Cambodians and others from Asia. Walking along the streets from shop to shop, everything is so so cheap. Conveniently, the American dollar is the most widely accepted form of currency. A typical meal is around $4.
Phnom Penh is a bustling city, with moto bikes everywhere. I don't understand how the traffic system here works because there are no traffic lights and minimal stop signs. People on the bikes roam freely, swerving as they please, sometimes in the opposite direction of traffic. The taxi cab here is called the tuk tuk, which is essentially an open air carriage pulled by a moto. A typical fare is a couple of bucks.
Cambodia has a very rich, yet disturbing history. From 1975-1979, the country was run by the Khmer Rouge, an extremist group aimed at destroying all traditions by destroying landmarks and killing any opposition (including intellectuals, doctors, lawyers, etc.). Families were torn apart during this period, but the country is slowly, but surely, recovering. There are NGOs everywhere helping to improve Cambodia. Walking down major streets, there are orpahned children begging for money or food, many of whom have lost limbs from nearby landmines (there are still thousands of them in the countryside). Many NGOs are set up to help get these kids off the streets. We ate lunch at a pace called Friends, which takes orphaned kids off the streets and gives them vocational training at the restaurant. The service was great, and we had a delicious traditional meal...chicken curry with white rice and a salad.
We spent much the of the afternoon walking around the city. We visited the King's Royal Palace which was spectacular. While waiting in line to enter, a bunch of Americans and video cameras ran through the crowd towards the palace. While everyone was baffled, I had to explain that they were filming an episode of the American tv program the Amazing Race. While Susan and I were getting tickets, one of the teams cut us to request their money back (they were apparently at the wrong place). To kill time before our 5:00 dinner, we both got traditional Khmer massages for a staggering $12. For 1 hour, this lady put me in the most ridiculous positions for massage every muscle in my body. It was like my high school wrestling days being put in body locks and full nelsons. Regardless, I feel great.
We had dinner at a traditional Cambodian place with a friend of Susan's, where were ate pork with white rice, sour beef soup, and banana salad (lunch was more appetizing...not gonna lie). To cap off the evening, we saw an Khmer dance performance at the Sovanna Phum arts center. The men wore giant masks and pretended to be both monkeys and warriors. I had no idea what was going on, but it was still entertaining. After the show is was 8:30 I was ready for bed. I crashed immediately when getting home.
Sorry for the lengthy post, but I had too much to write about (plus I know Mom is thrilled to know that I am surviving).
I was planing to meet Susan for breakfast at 9:00 am to go over the basics of the program. Not able to sleep (I must have Shane syndrome), I woke up at 6:30 in time to watch the beginning of the Yankees game on ESPN (thank god I got my baseball fix). I met Susan at a neighboring outdoor pool area/restaurant for a quick bite to eat. This place looks like it is straight out of Malibu, CA. There are lavish pools with trendy sunbathing beds along the edges...pretty crazy. I had a small salad to eat, then we decided to walk around town for a bit. It is so incredibly hot here. While temperatures range in the mid to upper 80s, the sun just beats on you. I was sweating within seconds of walking outside. Walking around town I noticed 2 things very quickly: The people here are extremely friendly, and everything here is incredibly cheap. Everyone wants to stop and share a few words with you, greeting you in traditional Cambodian fashion (hands palm to palm at your chin and a slight bow). The people here look like a mix between Mexicans and Indians. It is very easy to differentiate between Cambodians and others from Asia. Walking along the streets from shop to shop, everything is so so cheap. Conveniently, the American dollar is the most widely accepted form of currency. A typical meal is around $4.
Phnom Penh is a bustling city, with moto bikes everywhere. I don't understand how the traffic system here works because there are no traffic lights and minimal stop signs. People on the bikes roam freely, swerving as they please, sometimes in the opposite direction of traffic. The taxi cab here is called the tuk tuk, which is essentially an open air carriage pulled by a moto. A typical fare is a couple of bucks.
Cambodia has a very rich, yet disturbing history. From 1975-1979, the country was run by the Khmer Rouge, an extremist group aimed at destroying all traditions by destroying landmarks and killing any opposition (including intellectuals, doctors, lawyers, etc.). Families were torn apart during this period, but the country is slowly, but surely, recovering. There are NGOs everywhere helping to improve Cambodia. Walking down major streets, there are orpahned children begging for money or food, many of whom have lost limbs from nearby landmines (there are still thousands of them in the countryside). Many NGOs are set up to help get these kids off the streets. We ate lunch at a pace called Friends, which takes orphaned kids off the streets and gives them vocational training at the restaurant. The service was great, and we had a delicious traditional meal...chicken curry with white rice and a salad.
We spent much the of the afternoon walking around the city. We visited the King's Royal Palace which was spectacular. While waiting in line to enter, a bunch of Americans and video cameras ran through the crowd towards the palace. While everyone was baffled, I had to explain that they were filming an episode of the American tv program the Amazing Race. While Susan and I were getting tickets, one of the teams cut us to request their money back (they were apparently at the wrong place). To kill time before our 5:00 dinner, we both got traditional Khmer massages for a staggering $12. For 1 hour, this lady put me in the most ridiculous positions for massage every muscle in my body. It was like my high school wrestling days being put in body locks and full nelsons. Regardless, I feel great.
We had dinner at a traditional Cambodian place with a friend of Susan's, where were ate pork with white rice, sour beef soup, and banana salad (lunch was more appetizing...not gonna lie). To cap off the evening, we saw an Khmer dance performance at the Sovanna Phum arts center. The men wore giant masks and pretended to be both monkeys and warriors. I had no idea what was going on, but it was still entertaining. After the show is was 8:30 I was ready for bed. I crashed immediately when getting home.
Sorry for the lengthy post, but I had too much to write about (plus I know Mom is thrilled to know that I am surviving).
The Flight Over
Hey Everyone,
Sorry I haven't posted sooner, but this is the first time I have gotten to a computer. The flight from Atlanta took forever. I first had a 14 hour leg from Atlanta to Seoul, South Korea, a whopping 14 hours away. I managed to watch 4 movies during the span...pretty outrageous. I was fortunate to have an empty seat next to me on the flight which was nice. After a 2 hour delay in Seoul, I hopped aboard another 6 hour flight to Phnom Penh. While I slept for most the flight, I did wake up in time for dinner...eel (they had just run out of chicken). I opted to skip dinner (fortunately I had brought an entire box of pop tarts with me).
The time difference here is 11 hours ahead of Atlanta. As I write this blog at 9:00 am on Sunday, it is currently 10:00 pm in Atlanta on Saturday (I am following the Braves game right now). Once I landed, I had to buy a visa for $20, grabbed my luggage, and was greeted by Susan, the organization's in country coordinator. She has been nothing but friendly since I have been here. I finally arrived at my hotel at around 11:00 pm. My hotel is in a very safe neighbor with flocks of Western tourists. It is both amazing and comforting to see all of the English everywhere. The primary language here is Khmer, but many people speak English to some degree. My room is so much nicer than the hostel rooms I was used to in South America. I have air conditioning, a western style bathroom with tp, and a tv with about 60 channels (including HBO and ESPN). The only difference is the shower, which is basically is not a real shower at all. In the bathroom, there is a single shower head that shoots water into the middle of the bathroom, where it is then drained into a corner....pretty bizarre.
Anyway, im going to go ahead and post another entry about my day yesterday.
Peace,
Matt
Sorry I haven't posted sooner, but this is the first time I have gotten to a computer. The flight from Atlanta took forever. I first had a 14 hour leg from Atlanta to Seoul, South Korea, a whopping 14 hours away. I managed to watch 4 movies during the span...pretty outrageous. I was fortunate to have an empty seat next to me on the flight which was nice. After a 2 hour delay in Seoul, I hopped aboard another 6 hour flight to Phnom Penh. While I slept for most the flight, I did wake up in time for dinner...eel (they had just run out of chicken). I opted to skip dinner (fortunately I had brought an entire box of pop tarts with me).
The time difference here is 11 hours ahead of Atlanta. As I write this blog at 9:00 am on Sunday, it is currently 10:00 pm in Atlanta on Saturday (I am following the Braves game right now). Once I landed, I had to buy a visa for $20, grabbed my luggage, and was greeted by Susan, the organization's in country coordinator. She has been nothing but friendly since I have been here. I finally arrived at my hotel at around 11:00 pm. My hotel is in a very safe neighbor with flocks of Western tourists. It is both amazing and comforting to see all of the English everywhere. The primary language here is Khmer, but many people speak English to some degree. My room is so much nicer than the hostel rooms I was used to in South America. I have air conditioning, a western style bathroom with tp, and a tv with about 60 channels (including HBO and ESPN). The only difference is the shower, which is basically is not a real shower at all. In the bathroom, there is a single shower head that shoots water into the middle of the bathroom, where it is then drained into a corner....pretty bizarre.
Anyway, im going to go ahead and post another entry about my day yesterday.
Peace,
Matt
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Brief Introduction
Hello all,
I've created this blog with information regarding my upcoming trip to Cambodia. I'll be sure to keep everyone updated with relevant posts and pictures. For those of you who don't know, im going to spend a week training in Phnom Penh, the capitol city. Afterwards, I will be stationed at Wat Opot, a HIV community an hour and a half away from Phnom Penh, working in a hospice and helping residents in the community. I should also have an oppurtunity to work/shadow doctors in communal health facilities. Post any questions or concerns that you might have.
Thanks,
Matt
I've created this blog with information regarding my upcoming trip to Cambodia. I'll be sure to keep everyone updated with relevant posts and pictures. For those of you who don't know, im going to spend a week training in Phnom Penh, the capitol city. Afterwards, I will be stationed at Wat Opot, a HIV community an hour and a half away from Phnom Penh, working in a hospice and helping residents in the community. I should also have an oppurtunity to work/shadow doctors in communal health facilities. Post any questions or concerns that you might have.
Thanks,
Matt
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