The City of Smells Cont.

I came of with this title for a reason: there are infinite smells throughout the city. No matter where we travel, there is always some bizarre stench closeby. The best examples of this can be found in the local markets. Susan and I went recently went to a local neighborhood marker, where vendors sell anything (and I literally mean anything). Cambodians don't let anything go to waste, so virtually every part of the animal is consumed. Market vendors sell live and dried out fish from the Mekong, frogs, tarantulas, intenstines, smelly fruits, spices, etc etc etc. I, for whatever reason, can't seem to get away from a lingering fishy smell. The other day, I accidently put fish juice on my rice when I though it was vinegar...I almost threw up on the spot. One of the funniest things I have seen has been the infamous chicken moto, where a chicken vendor transports hundreds of dead and alive chicken on his tiny moto (pics to come later).

Over the past three days, I have been taken daily Khmer lessons. I am actually picking up the language rather quickly. I know basic greetings, how to count to about 90,000, family members, foods, and general questions. Cambodians are very grateful when they see you trying to communicate in their native tongue. At the same time, they enjoy practicing their English with foreigners.

Susan has been great in arranging meetings with executive directors of various NGOs in town. The non-government agencies are instrumental in providing appropriate relief to strenghen healthcare and the economy of Cambodia. Yesterday, we met with the executive director of KHANA (Khmer HIV/AIDS NGO Alliance), and organization intended to provide support to everyone in Cambodia suffering from HIV/AIDS and to promote safe practices. They are doing a fantastic job, because nearly 95% of all infected persons (in the ENTIRE country) either receive ARVs (anti-retroviral drugs) or are in ART (anti-retroviral therapy). The biggest problem here is not providing the support, but encouraging people to practice safe behaviors. People here are educated on HIV/AIDS, but are still reluctant to wear condoms or practice appropriate safe behaviors.

We also visited the director of The Transcultural Psychosocial Organization, an organization aimed to help improve mental health issues of Cambodia. The Khmer Rouge has left lasting psychosical issues among most people here, so it is important to recognize underlying factors and help improve. The head doctor of the program believes that people suffer from Basabat, or a defeated mentality. This is a bit different from PTSD, so different measures need to be taken in helping people. Other NGOs include Resource Revenue Transparency and Tinytoons. RRT is intended to make all oil/mining revenues and budgeting transparent so the money accumulated does not go to waste. It is better to invest this money long term as it will help the economy in the long run. Tinytunes is an organization taking streets kids from the streets and putting them in a safer, more fun environment. Here, kids can learn to breakdance, play sports, work with a dj turntable, and take English classes. This is a very unique organization that has received a great deal of grant money over the past 4 years.

Yesterday, Susan and I visited the Russian market, where you can essentially buy anything. I bought a knock off North Face Backpack, one of those heavy duty ones, for only $12 (they retail for about $80). You can get bootleg DVDs for $2 (including recent films such as The Hangover), bootleg POLOs from $6 (and they look legit), moto parts, crafts, food, etc.

Ill try to post some pics either tonight or tomorrow. I have been really busy so I havent had time to do so.